Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrieres 2019 750 ML

The Loire now has many producers who work sustainably and/or naturally, but that wasn’t the case 26 years ago, when the Bretons were certified organic. They’ve been doing all the right things for decades: hand-harvesting, using indigenous yeast, sulfuring minimally. The resulting wines are powerfully structured vins de gardes that are nonetheless beautiful, floral, and hauntingly perfumed.